Chimney Repair St. Louis — Crown, Masonry & Storm Damage

Tuckpointing is the process of removing deteriorated mortar from between bricks and replacing it with fresh mortar. It's both functional (waterproof seal between bricks) and aesthetic (clean, sharp lines).

St. Louis is a tuckpointing market unlike most cities. Here's why:

• Aging housing stock — Florissant, Kirkwood, Webster Groves, University City all have heavy concentrations of homes built 50-100+ years ago
• Brutal freeze-thaw cycles — Missouri's temperature crosses freezing 80+ times per winter, expanding water in mortar joints
• High humidity in summer — Mortar saturated with moisture in summer takes longer to dry, accelerating deterioration
• Original mortar from pre-1980 — Older mortar formulations weren't designed for modern weather extremes

Real AIO Pro Tuckpointing Work

Here's an example of recent tuckpointing work — original mortar was crumbling, joints were widening, water was beginning to penetrate. After full tuckpointing, the chimney is sealed and structurally sound for decades:

The Right Way to Tuckpoint

• Grind out old mortar to a depth of 3/4 inch minimum (most contractors only go 1/4 inch — that fails within 5 years)
• Match the original mortar composition — pre-1930s homes need lime-based mortar, not Portland cement
• Match the color — color-tinted mortar to blend with original work, especially on premium homes
• Tool the joints properly — concave, V-grooved, or flush depending on the original work
• Cure properly — keep new mortar damp for 3 days minimum to prevent shrinkage cracks

Flashing is the metal sheeting that seals the joint where your chimney meets the roof. When properly installed, it's invisible and waterproof for decades. When damaged, it allows water to enter your home along the entire perimeter where the chimney meets the roof.

Common flashing problems we see:

• Tar-only flashing — A black tar smear instead of proper step flashing. Common shortcut from unqualified roofers. Fails within 2-5 years.
• Lifted or curled flashing — High winds or improper installation pulls the flashing away from the masonry, creating gaps for water entry.
• Rusted flashing — Galvanized steel flashing rusts through after 20-30 years, even when properly installed.
• Missing counter-flashing — The cap that goes over the step flashing. Often missing entirely on builder-grade work.

Real AIO Pro Flashing Work

Here's a recent flashing replacement — the original tar-only "flashing" had failed completely, allowing water along the entire chimney-roof joint. After full step flashing and counter-flashing installation, the seal is permanent:

The firebox is the interior chamber where the fire actually burns. It's lined with refractory panels or firebrick — heat-resistant materials designed to contain temperatures over 1,000°F and protect your home's wood framing from catching fire.

When refractory panels crack or firebrick mortar joints fail, heat can transfer to combustible wood framing behind the firebox. This is one of the most common causes of house fires that originate at the fireplace.

Common Firebox Repairs

• Refractory panel replacement — Common in prefab fireplaces. Panels develop cracks from thermal cycling and need replacement every 15-25 years.
• Firebrick mortar repair — Refractory mortar between firebricks erodes with use. We re-point with high-temperature mortar.
• Firebrick replacement — Cracked or shattered firebricks (often from impact with logs) are individually replaced.
• Smoke chamber repair — The angled chamber above the firebox often needs parging (smooth coating of refractory mortar) to seal cracks and improve draft.

Real AIO Pro Firebox Work

Here's a recent refractory panel replacement — original panels were cracked through, exposing the metal firebox shell behind. After replacement with new code-compliant panels, the firebox is back to factory specifications: